Mexican Shortbread Cookies (Biscochitos): Making with Lard vs Butter

Quick Summary: Biscochitos (bee-sko-CHEE-tohs) are anise-and-orange-scented Mexican shortbread cookies dusted in cinnamon sugar, traditionally served during Christmas celebrations. The dough works with lard, butter, or shortening depending on your texture preference. Prep: 15 min + 30 min chill | Cook: 10 min | Makes: 36 cookies

Jump to: RECIPE | | What are Biscochitos? | Lard vs Butter | Ingredients | Drink Pairings | FAQ

Biscochitos are a holiday tradition throughout Mexico and the American Southwest, and they also hold the distinction of being the official state cookie of New Mexico. They are basically a cross between sugar cookies and Mexican wedding cookies.

I first made these upon a request from my daughter’s foster teen from the Bajio region of Mexico, who I refer to throughout this site as mi amiga.

I tested them with both lard and butter versions to see which she liked best. No surprise that she chose the lard version, as that is what she is used to cooking with!

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What are Biscochitos?

Biscochitos (bee-sko-CHEE-tohs), also spelled bizcochitos, are Mexican shortbread cookies flavored with anise, orange zest, and cinnamon, then coated in cinnamon sugar after baking. The name comes from the Spanish “bizcocho,” meaning a small cake or biscuit.

The texture is somewhere between a sugar cookie and a Mexican wedding cookie. Unlike American shortbread, which relies on butter alone for flavor, these Mexican shortbread cookies get their distinctive taste from the combination of anise seed (or star anise), citrus, warm spices, and traditionally, lard.

Why Are Biscochitos the State Cookie of New Mexico?

In 1989, New Mexico became the first state in the U.S. to adopt an official state cookie, and biscochitos earned that honor. The designation recognized the cookie’s deep roots in New Mexican Hispanic culture, where families have been making biscochitos for generations, with recipes passed down and guarded carefully.

The New Mexican version typically uses anise seed, lard, and sometimes a splash of wine or brandy. Many families have their own variations, with some add more orange, some less cinnamon, some insist on a particular shape.

The state cookie designation was partly a cultural preservation effort. As New Mexican food traditions gained wider attention, there was concern that the distinctive regional versions of dishes like biscochitos might be diluted or forgotten. The official recognition helped cement the cookie’s place in New Mexican identity.

When Are Biscochitos Traditionally Served?

Biscochitos are most closely associated with Christmas (Navidad) in both Mexico and New Mexico. During the holiday season, families make large batches for gatherings, gift-giving, and holiday parties.

In New Mexico, no Christmas celebration is complete without a plate of biscochitos alongside the luminarias and tamales.

Beyond Christmas, biscochitos appear at other significant celebrations:

• Weddings: Biscochitos are a traditional wedding cookie in New Mexican Hispanic communities, sometimes served alongside or instead of cake.
• Baptisms and First Communions: The cookies mark religious milestones, particularly in Catholic families.
• Quinceañeras: The celebration of a girl’s fifteenth birthday often includes biscochitos among the desserts.
• Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos): Some families include biscochitos on the ofrenda or serve them during the celebration, though pan de muerto is more traditional.
• New Year’s: Biscochitos carry over from Christmas celebrations into the New Year.

The cookies are also made for funerals and wakes in some communities, as a comfort food that connects mourners to tradition and family history.

Are There Regional Variations of Biscochitos?

The basic formula of anise-flavored shortbread with cinnamon sugar coating appears throughout Mexico and the American Southwest, but regional and family variations abound.

Mexican Variations: In Mexico, you’ll find similar cookies under different names depending on the region. In some areas, polvorones refers to the same anise-spiced cookie; in others, polvorones are a slightly different, more crumbly cookie made with ground nuts.

Pan de polvo tends to be a simpler version with fewer spices. The lines between these cookies blur depending on who you ask and where their family is from.

Some Mexican versions use only anise seed, while others add cinnamon to the dough itself (not just the coating). Orange zest is common in some regions and absent in others. In parts of central Mexico, a touch of ground clove appears in the spice blend.

New Mexican Variations: New Mexican biscochitos are often made with wine (traditionally a sweet wine like Moscatel) or brandy in the dough, which adds complexity and helps tenderize the cookie.

Some families use whiskey instead. The New Mexican versions also tend to be slightly thicker than some Mexican versions.

The fat used varies by family tradition and personal preference, with some insisting on lard (like mi amiga). Others have always used butter, and some use a combination of both for flavor and texture.

Shape Variations: The fleur-de-lis is the traditional shape in New Mexico, symbolizing the Spanish colonial heritage.

Star shapes are popular for Christmas. Some families have signature shapes passed down through generations, from simple rounds to elaborate cutouts.

While not a biscochito cookie per se, these Low Carb Mexican spice chocolate cookies can fill in when you need something that is low carb.

Lard vs Shortening vs Butter

It is said by many that in order for biscochito recipe to be authentic, you must use lard. While I have no problem with lard, there are many cooks who are averse to lard for a number of reasons.

So the bottom line is that with respect to “flavor”, you can use lard, shortening, or butter and achieve a fairly comparable flavor in these cookies. The texture is where you will see the most difference.

Biscochitos Made with Butter:

Biscochitos Made with Lard:

How to Make Biscochitos

The detailed ingredients and instructions are in the recipe card below. In short:

1. Whisk together the dry ingredients (flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ground anise, and orange zest).
2. Cream the fat and sugar until light and fluffy, then add the egg, brandy, and anise extract. Gradually mix in the dry ingredients until just combined.
3. Chill the dough for at least 30 minutes, as this makes rolling easier and helps cookies hold their shape. Roll out to about 1/4-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface, cut with cookie cutters, and bake at 350°F for about 10 minutes, until edges just begin to turn golden.
4. While the cookies are still warm, coat each one in cinnamon sugar. The warmth helps the sugar adhere and creates that signature sweet, spiced crust.

Ingredients

The following photo shows you all the ingredients you will need for this recipe. For details on measurements, see the recipe below.

Tip: If you are looking for lard in the grocery store it is often in the meat department, whereas shortening is with the oils, and butter is with dairy.

Tips for Perfect Biscochitos

• Don’t over-measure flour. This is the most common cause of dry, crumbly dough. Fluff your flour before scooping or use a kitchen scale for accuracy.
• Chill the dough. The 30-minute rest isn’t optional. It makes rolling easier and helps cookies hold their shape during baking.
• Watch the edges. Remove cookies from the oven when edges just start to turn golden. They’ll continue cooking on the hot pan for another minute or two.
• Coat while warm. The cinnamon sugar adheres best to slightly warm cookies. Too hot and it melts; too cool and it won’t stick well.
• Use fresh spices. Ground anise loses its punch over time. If your anise has been in the cabinet for a year, consider replacing it.

What to Drink with Biscochitos?

I like my cookies with a hot, robust tea. The raspberry black tea or the pu-erh blend with cocoa nibs, cinnamon chips, and árbol chile (shown below) complement the anise and cinnamon flavors nicely.

At a Mexican celebration, you’re more likely to be served atole or champurrado (see photo and recipe below) alongside your biscochitos. These thick, warming corn-based drinks are traditional holiday pairings.

Coffee works well too, particularly Mexican café de olla, which is brewed with cinnamon and piloncillo, although this coffee along with the cookies might be a little too sweet for some palates.

FAQ